Rome Newsroom, Apr 8, 2023 / 05:00 am
The quintessential Easter treat in Italy is a dove-shaped sweet bread known as the “Colomba di Pasqua” — or “Easter dove” in English.
The fluffy dough can include nuts, chocolates, or candied fruit and is often topped with sugar or a flavored icing glaze.
The dessert, like the traditional Christmas treats of panettone and pandoro, is said to come from northern Italy. But a popular legend also recounts the sweet bread’s possibly miraculous origins.
The incredible story dates to the sixth or seventh century and includes a queen, a feast, and a group of Irish monks.
According to the legend, Queen Teodolinda, who was living where the town of Pavia, Italy, now lies, had heard the great reputation for holiness of an Irish missionary and abbot who had arrived in her kingdom.
In Italy, the saint is called Colombano, but he is also variously known as Columba, Columbkille, Columcille, or Colmcille.
The name Colmcille means “dove of the Church,” providing a hint to how this legend may have originated.
According to an account on the Italian website saintcolumban.eu, Queen Teodolinda really wanted to meet the Irish abbot she had heard so much about. So when she knew he was in her lands, she invited him and his fellow missionaries to visit her castle for lunch.
Given the importance of her guests, Queen Teodolinda ordered the best food to be served at her table that day, including roasted meats with gravies, sausages, and platters of fresh game.
St. Colmcille’s monks were shocked at the sight of all the rich food, especially given their practice of poverty and fasting.
There was also another problem: It was Lent.
As Queen Teodolinda, her husband, King Agilulfo, and their courtiers began to dig into the feast, the monks sat still, waiting for a sign from their abbot about what to do. They were hungry after their long travels but saw there was only meat at the table.
Colmcille bowed his head to the monarchs in thanks for the meal but did not reach for any food.
Queen Teodolinda was offended by her guests’ refusal of her meal. She said, in a sardonic tone, “You aren’t eating, brothers?”
A young monk piped up in response: “We are monks: We can’t eat this.”
St. Colmcille interrupted his rude confrere. He told the queen they could not eat food that had not been blessed and humbly asked for permission to bless the meal.
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Given the queen and king’s permission, Colmcille pulled toward him the nearest plate of food and bowed his head in prayer.
He then held his hand over the platter — which held a large roasted dove — to bless it.
As he concluded, everyone present was shocked to see that the roasted bird and its fragrant dressings had been transformed into a simple loaf of bread.
The only trace of what had been there before was the bread’s shape, which was the form of a dove.
This, St. Colmcille said, is food appropriate for the season of Lent, and he and his followers began to eat the loaf.
Today, the Colomba bread is associated with Easter and is usually sweetened in order to be fitting for the celebration of Christ’s resurrection.
And though most biographies do not record the great Irish missionary St. Colmcille’s visit to Italy, the story of the dessert’s origin is sweet, indeed.
